How to build a MAME cabinet - A detailed guide and how to
Home - Step by step - Work Drawings and Artwork - Builders WikiFAQ - Specs - Email - Video - Links

Step by step
The making of the TaitoRama MAME cabinet
Project MAME  -  Weecade   -  TaitoRama  -   Nanocade  -   ArcadeStik  -  econ

Page 2 / 4

From the square bottom of the 16 mm MDF/HDF board I attached wooden support frames and glued and screwed them onto the square board. Then I mounted some heavy duty wheels at my local retailer. Finally I mounted the bottom to one of the cabinet sides with glue and some screws.

I purposely mounted the board a bit high, so the wheels wouldn't be visible once the cabinet is finished.
From the rest of the 16mm MDF/HDF board i cut out two rectangular boards and attached some wooden support frames. Finally I glued and screwed them to the side of the cabinet. They will later serve as a lightbox to the marquee whilst making the cabinet a bit sturdier. Make sure you leave room to the marquee.
I cut out the back side for the cabinet in 12mm MDF/HDF board and attached it to the top and bottom of the cabinet and attached wooden support frames for support. Remember to use glue and screws. Adding a cross support frame would have made it even sturdier. I will do that the next time I build one.

It was getting late in the evening and my neighbors were pretty fed up with me, so I would have to wait until tomorrow to mount the side of the cabinet. 
Arise my son! A real satisfying moment to turn it upright. Again adding a cross section would further stabilize the cabinet.
Now armed with a camera instead of the camera on my mobile phone I turned the cabinet over and drilled some venting holes. Since I don't have a milling machine I drilled two holes with a 27mm drill and used a sabre saw to cut out between the holes.

Next time I would probably make the venting holes a bit smaller, but you can't get enough ventilation.


The next step was to mount the board which will hold the speakers. I cut out a rectangular board and mounted a wooden support frame on the board which later will support the plexiglass.

I also drilled some holes in the wood that will help removing heat from the newly bought 20" TFT LCD screen. I drilled and sawed out the holes for the speakers with the sabre saw. 

For the marquee housing I cut out a small board which fitted into the top and glued it on the support frames. I used silicone based paste to make it lightproof and then I used silver foil to make it reflective. Finally I mounted a 13 watt, 53 cm, flouresant kitchen lamp which I found at my local retailer. Perfect for a marquee.
I mounted two strips of 16 mm MDF/HDF board with glue and screws to support the kitchen hinges and the door. Unfortunately I had run out of 16mm MDF/HDF board so I had to make wooden spacers for the hinges, otherwise the hinges would be visible on the front. Making the door to the cabinet was probably the single most timeconsuming element of the build. But that was due to lack of the right tools and running out of 16mm MDF/HDF board.

Luckily it worked like a charm and the door works perfectly to this day.
A view with the door closed. The holes from the hinges were covered in a cutout of round shaped plastic to protect the hinges and covered with filler. After a light sanding you never knew there was a hole.

The small hole in the cross section is made so you can open the door and push out the drawer which will hold the keyboard and the mouse. You could also mount a knob for the drawer, but I like when it's not visible

Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the building of the drawer to the keyboard and mouse, but it was fairly simple to make ;o)

I cut out a rectangular board of 12mm MDF/HDF board for the base of the drawer and mounted a wooden support. Then I cut out a second 12mm MDF/HDF strip for the front of the drawer and mounted it to the support, so it was in alignment with the front door to the cabinet. Then I mounted two old drawer sliders which I mounted to the side of the base of the drawer and finally I mounted them onto the sides of the cabinet.

For opening the drawer I have to open the front door, which is a drawback, but atleast it's not visible. A suggestion could be to mount easy touch drawer sliders, which you can press inwards and then the drawer will open. Well, let's see the cabinet in full size

  Join our Facebook group and receive updates and discuss MAME cabinets with fellow retro gamers:
Page 2 / 4  -  Woodwork part two


If you decide to make your own MAME cabinet using my drawings, please feel free to make a donation,  as I'm trying to raise enough money to make a new up-right cabinet, that's hard to do as a student.


See the work drawings and artwork here
Video of the process here


[ Copyright koenigs 2008 ]